Animal Crochet

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  • How to Make a Magic Ring for Amigurumi

    Almost every amigurumi starts with a magic ring, also called a magic circle. It closes the centre of your work completely, so there is no hole for the stuffing to show through.

    What you need

    • Smooth yarn in a light colour, so you can see your stitches
    • A crochet hook that suits your yarn (2.5 mm for DK cotton)
    • Scissors

    Step by step

    1. Make a loop. Wrap the yarn around two fingers to form a loop and pinch the spot where the yarn crosses. The short end is the tail. The strand that runs to the ball is the working yarn.
    2. Pull up a loop. Insert your hook into the ring, catch the working yarn and pull it through the ring.
    3. Chain 1. Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook to lock it. This chain does not count as a stitch.
    4. Crochet into the ring. Work your stitches over both the ring and the tail so they are enclosed. Most amigurumi patterns start with 6 single crochet in the ring.
    5. Close the ring. Gently pull the tail. If the ring does not close, pull the other strand instead. Once it is closed, tug it snug.
    6. Keep going. Most amigurumi is worked in a spiral, so do not join the round. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch and move it up as you go.

    Tips for a tight ring

    • Leave a tail of about 10 to 15 cm so it is easy to pull and to weave in.
    • Weave the tail through the stitches at the end so the ring cannot loosen.
    • Practise with a thicker yarn first, then move to the yarn in your pattern.

    An easy alternative

    If the magic ring feels tricky, chain 2 and work 6 single crochet into the second chain from your hook. The centre is not as tight, but it is a good way to start while you practise.

    Ready to try it?

    Put your new skill to work with our Little Panda pattern, and read our guide to the best yarn and hook size for amigurumi before you start.

  • Best Yarn and Hook Size for Amigurumi

    The right yarn and hook make amigurumi easier and neater. The goal is firm, tight stitches, so the stuffing stays inside and your little friend keeps its shape.

    Choose your yarn

    • Cotton: firm, holds its shape and shows stitches clearly. It has very little stretch, so it can be tough on your hands at first.
    • Acrylic: soft, affordable and available in lots of colours. It is more forgiving, but it can look fluffy.
    • Blends: a cotton and acrylic mix gives you a bit of both.

    Yarn weight

    DK (8-ply) and worsted weight are the easiest to start with. They are thick enough to see your stitches and thin enough to make small toys. Our patterns use DK cotton.

    Hook size

    Use a hook that is smaller than the one suggested on the yarn label. This makes the fabric dense, so the stuffing cannot peek through.

    • DK or 8-ply yarn: 2.5 to 3.0 mm
    • Worsted or 10-ply yarn: 3.0 to 3.5 mm
    • Very fine yarn: 2.0 mm

    A quick test

    Crochet the first three rounds of any ball shape and look at the fabric. If you can see gaps between the stitches, go down a hook size. If the piece feels stiff and is hard to work, go up half a size.

    Extra tips

    • Start with a light colour, because dark yarn hides your stitches.
    • Choose smooth yarn. Fuzzy yarn is harder to unpick.
    • Keep the label of the yarn so you can buy more in the same dye lot.

    Start stitching

    Try our Sleepy Bunny pattern with a soft cream yarn, and learn how to start it in our guide to the magic ring.

  • How to Read a Crochet Pattern: Abbreviations and Rounds

    A crochet pattern can look like a secret code at first. Once you know the abbreviations and how rounds work, it becomes a simple set of instructions.

    Common abbreviations

    • MR: magic ring
    • ch: chain
    • sl st: slip stitch
    • sc: single crochet
    • inc: increase, two single crochet in the same stitch
    • dec: decrease, single crochet two stitches together
    • st(s): stitch(es)
    • FO: fasten off

    Rounds and stitch counts

    A line such as Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) means you work what is inside the brackets six times. The number at the end, (18), is how many stitches you should have when the round is finished. Count after every round so you catch mistakes early.

    Working in a spiral

    Most amigurumi is crocheted in continuous rounds. You do not join the round or turn your work. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up when you reach it.

    US and UK terms

    The same stitch can have a different name in the US and the UK. Our patterns use US terms.

    • US single crochet (sc) is UK double crochet (dc)
    • US half double crochet (hdc) is UK half treble (htr)
    • US double crochet (dc) is UK treble (tr)

    Before you start

    • Read the whole pattern once, including the assembly.
    • Check the materials list and the size of the finished toy.
    • Keep a pen nearby to tick off each round.

    Practise with a real pattern

    Our Baby Fox pattern shows how a pattern uses colour changes, and the beginner toolkit lists everything you need to begin.

  • Amigurumi Toolkit for Beginners: 8 Things You Need

    You do not need much to start making amigurumi. This short list covers the tools that make the biggest difference, and none of them is expensive.

    The essentials

    1. A crochet hook. A 2.5 to 3.0 mm hook works for most DK yarn. A soft handle is kinder to your hand.
    2. Yarn. Smooth cotton or acrylic in DK weight. Read our yarn and hook guide for more.
    3. Stitch markers. They mark the start of each round. A safety pin or a scrap of yarn works too.
    4. A tapestry needle. Choose one with a blunt tip and a large eye for sewing parts together and weaving in ends.
    5. Sharp scissors. Small scissors make clean cuts and are easy to carry.
    6. Polyester stuffing. It is light, washable and easy to shape.
    7. Safety eyes or black thread. Safety eyes lock in place. For babies and small children, embroider the eyes instead.
    8. Pins. Use them to hold ears and limbs in place before you sew.

    Stuffing tips

    • Stuff in small pieces as you crochet, not all at the end.
    • Fill firmly, but stop before the stitches start to stretch and show gaps.
    • Shape each piece with your fingers before you close it.
    • A chopstick or the blunt end of a pencil helps you reach small corners.

    Nice to have

    • A row counter
    • A small ruler or tape measure
    • A project bag to keep your pieces together

    Time to start

    Once your toolkit is ready, learn the magic ring and try our Little Panda pattern.

  • Baby Fox Amigurumi Pattern

    Skill level: Easy to Intermediate (you will change colours for the tail). Finished size: about 10 cm (4 in) tall. Size will vary with your yarn and tension.

    Materials

    • DK or 8-ply cotton yarn: orange, white and a small amount of black
    • 2.5 mm crochet hook
    • 6 mm safety eyes, or black thread to embroider the eyes
    • Polyester stuffing
    • Tapestry needle, stitch marker and scissors

    Abbreviations

    • MR: magic ring
    • sc: single crochet
    • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
    • dec: single crochet 2 together (invisible decrease)
    • st(s): stitch(es)
    • FO: fasten off

    Work in continuous rounds without joining. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. The number in brackets at the end of a line is your stitch count.

    Head

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
    • Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
    • Rounds 6 to 11: sc in each st (30)
    • Round 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
    • Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18). If you use safety eyes, add them between rounds 8 and 9 before you stuff.
    • Round 14: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12). Stuff firmly.
    • Round 15: dec x 6 (6). FO, thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 sts and pull tight.

    Body

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
    • Rounds 5 to 8: sc in each st (24)
    • Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
    • Round 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12). Stuff firmly.
    • Round 11: dec x 6 (6). FO and close the hole.

    Ears (make 2)

    Use orange.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
    • Round 3: sc in each st (9)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)
    • Rounds 5 to 6: sc in each st (12)

    FO and leave a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten the ear into a triangle before sewing.

    Muzzle

    Use white.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Rounds 3 to 4: sc in each st (12)

    FO and leave a long tail. Stuff lightly.

    Tail

    Start with orange and change to white at round 7.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Rounds 4 to 6: sc in each st (18)
    • Round 7 (white): (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
    • Round 8: sc in each st (12)
    • Round 9: dec x 6 (6)

    Stuff lightly, FO and close.

    Arms (make 2)

    Use orange (for little white paws, work rounds 1 to 2 in white).

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Rounds 2 to 6: sc in each st (6)

    FO and leave a long tail. Stuff very lightly.

    Legs (make 2)

    Use orange. For little white socks, work rounds 1 to 3 in white.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Rounds 3 to 4: sc in each st (12)
    • Round 5: dec x 6 (6)

    FO, stuff lightly and close the hole. Leave a long tail.

    Assembly

    • Sew the closed end of the head to the closed end of the body.
    • Sew the ears to the top of the head, about 5 stitches apart.
    • Add the safety eyes around rounds 8 to 9, about 7 stitches apart, then sew the muzzle between and just below them.
    • Embroider a small black nose on the muzzle.
    • Sew the arms to the sides of the body near the top, the legs to the bottom sides and the tail to the back.

    Finishing tips

    Use pins to place every piece before you sew. Pull your yarn tails inside the toy to hide them. Spot clean with a damp cloth and let your little friend air dry. If the toy is for a baby or small child, embroider the face instead of using safety eyes.

  • Sleepy Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

    Skill level: Easy. Finished size: about 10 cm (4 in) tall without the ears. Size will vary with your yarn and tension. This bunny uses the same simple head and body as our other little friends, with long ears and closed sleepy eyes.

    Materials

    • DK or 8-ply cotton yarn: cream and a small amount of pink
    • 2.5 mm crochet hook
    • 6 mm safety eyes, or black thread to embroider the eyes
    • Polyester stuffing
    • Tapestry needle, stitch marker and scissors

    Abbreviations

    • MR: magic ring
    • sc: single crochet
    • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
    • dec: single crochet 2 together (invisible decrease)
    • st(s): stitch(es)
    • FO: fasten off

    Work in continuous rounds without joining. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. The number in brackets at the end of a line is your stitch count.

    Head

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
    • Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
    • Rounds 6 to 11: sc in each st (30)
    • Round 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
    • Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18). If you use safety eyes, add them between rounds 8 and 9 before you stuff.
    • Round 14: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12). Stuff firmly.
    • Round 15: dec x 6 (6). FO, thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 sts and pull tight.

    Body

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
    • Rounds 5 to 8: sc in each st (24)
    • Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
    • Round 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12). Stuff firmly.
    • Round 11: dec x 6 (6). FO and close the hole.

    Ears (make 2)

    Use cream.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
    • Rounds 3 to 10: sc in each st (9)
    • Round 11: (1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)
    • Round 12: sc in each st (6)

    FO and leave a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten the ear before sewing.

    Arms (make 2)

    Use cream.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Rounds 2 to 6: sc in each st (6)

    FO and leave a long tail. Stuff very lightly.

    Legs (make 2)

    Use cream. Bunny feet are slightly bigger than paws, so add one extra round: after round 4, work one more round of sc in each st (12) before you decrease.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Rounds 3 to 4: sc in each st (12)
    • Round 5: dec x 6 (6)

    FO, stuff lightly and close the hole. Leave a long tail.

    Tail

    Use cream.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: sc in each st (12)
    • Round 4: dec x 6 (6)

    Stuff lightly, FO and close.

    Assembly

    • Sew the closed end of the head to the closed end of the body.
    • Sew the ears to the top of the head (the magic ring end), about 4 stitches apart.
    • Embroider two small downward curves for the sleepy eyes around rounds 8 to 9, about 6 stitches apart.
    • Embroider a tiny pink nose in the centre of the face, just below the eyes.
    • Sew the arms to the sides of the body near the top, the legs to the bottom sides and the tail to the back.

    Finishing tips

    Use pins to place every piece before you sew. Pull your yarn tails inside the toy to hide them. Spot clean with a damp cloth and let your little friend air dry. If the toy is for a baby or small child, embroider the face instead of using safety eyes.

  • Little Panda Amigurumi Pattern

    Skill level: Easy. Finished size: about 10 cm (4 in) tall. Size will vary with your yarn and tension. This little panda is made from simple balls, so it is a lovely first amigurumi.

    Materials

    • DK or 8-ply cotton yarn: white and black
    • 2.5 mm crochet hook
    • 6 mm safety eyes, or black thread to embroider the eyes
    • Polyester stuffing
    • Tapestry needle, stitch marker and scissors

    Abbreviations

    • MR: magic ring
    • sc: single crochet
    • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
    • dec: single crochet 2 together (invisible decrease)
    • st(s): stitch(es)
    • FO: fasten off

    Work in continuous rounds without joining. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. The number in brackets at the end of a line is your stitch count.

    Head

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
    • Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
    • Rounds 6 to 11: sc in each st (30)
    • Round 12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
    • Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18). If you use safety eyes, add them between rounds 8 and 9 before you stuff.
    • Round 14: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12). Stuff firmly.
    • Round 15: dec x 6 (6). FO, thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 sts and pull tight.

    Body

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
    • Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
    • Rounds 5 to 8: sc in each st (24)
    • Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
    • Round 10: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12). Stuff firmly.
    • Round 11: dec x 6 (6). FO and close the hole.

    Ears (make 2)

    Use black.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Round 3: sc in each st (12)

    FO and leave a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten the ear before sewing.

    Arms (make 2)

    Use black.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Rounds 2 to 6: sc in each st (6)

    FO and leave a long tail. Stuff very lightly.

    Legs (make 2)

    Use black.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)
    • Rounds 3 to 4: sc in each st (12)
    • Round 5: dec x 6 (6)

    FO, stuff lightly and close the hole. Leave a long tail.

    Eye patches (make 2)

    Use black.

    • Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
    • Round 2: inc in each st (12)

    FO and leave a long tail.

    Assembly

    • Sew the closed end of the head to the closed end of the body.
    • Sew the ears to the top of the head (the magic ring end), about 3 stitches from the centre on each side.
    • Sew the eye patches on the face around rounds 8 to 9, about 6 stitches apart, then place the eyes on the patches.
    • Embroider a small black nose and a tiny mouth just below the patches.
    • Sew the arms to the sides of the body near the top and the legs to the bottom sides.

    Finishing tips

    Use pins to place every piece before you sew. Pull your yarn tails inside the toy to hide them. Spot clean with a damp cloth and let your little friend air dry. If the toy is for a baby or small child, embroider the face instead of using safety eyes.